SOUTHERN AFRICA
Zambia, Botswana and South Africa
There is something special
about Africa. This magical land will absorb you the moment
you enter it. Your body and mind wander as you are at one with
the wild in the world that mankind grew up in. The African
air pulsates with the sounds of life, surrounding you with
the idea that you are a small piece of a complex world that
would be the same with or without you. Your mind is forever
altered and your spirit too, will never be the same. As the
wrinkles of urban living smooth out, your entire metabolism
slows to the beat of a different, deeper drum.
You have come to this land
to witness first hand the incredible creatures that live here,
to feel their energy, to connect to their senses. You are anxious
with anticipation as your eyes scan the African landscape for
life that you know lies hidden there. Suddenly, your glance
falls upon a dark hole in the bushes. A mysterious shape within
the hole draws you in and holds your attention without effort.
Your eyes strain to understand the shape within the hole that
you see. Your breathing quickens as you detect the glow of
amber eyes and realize that this shape is the face of an enormous
male lion staring right at you. He is only yards away and you
become keenly aware that there is no barrier between him and
you. Your spine tingles and your heart begins to race for you
have been seen, and are being watched by one of the greatest
beasts to grace the earth. He has the upper hand as he is stronger
and faster than you, but he does not move. The amber eyes that
see out from the brush look right through you into your very
soul. He lies motionless. Not even the air around him is brave
enough to move. You are both frozen in state of suspended eternity.
The intensity of those amber eyes etches into your memory forever.
His is a face not to be forgotten...
THE CHANCE OF A LIFETIME
Alan and I traveled to Africa on
photographic assignment for Simon
and Baker Travel Review. Our plan was to photograph a wide
variety of luxury safari accommodations in the bush in three
different countries, Zambia, Botswana and South Africa (in and
around the Kruger National Park area). Our journey stretched
a span of four weeks, taking us to some of the most remote regions
in southern Africa. I was also there to gather reference materials
for my painting, believing that one must experience first hand
the wild places they wish to portray in order to give the light
of life to their work.
Dwarfed by a giant termite mound,
Joni with bush guide Mukansi, South Africa
Doing field work in the bush, Kruger
Park, South Africa
We started our journey in Zambia,
near the justifiably famous Victoria Falls. A helicopter trip
over the falls showed us its majesty and helped us to understand
the flow of the water that created the unique shape of this cascading
behemoth. Rainbows stretched themselves over the mist laden water,
sometimes spanning half the width of the great Zambezi River.
The deep gorge of the lower Zambezi is the result of water that
has flowed unfettered since the dawn of time. The sound of water
flying helplessly over the cliff side is almost deafening.
Victoria Falls from the air, Zambia
The thundering falls
Rainbow laden
waters, Victoria Falls, Zambia
Our next stop was Botswana where
we stayed for two weeks in a variety of camps in very remote
regions. The human population in the country of Botswana is quite
low, leaving vast areas of untouched land for wildlife. The people
of this stunning natural jewel wisely have designated forty percent
of their country’s land to wild game preserves. Many of
the camps are only accessible by bush planes that take off and
land on questionable ground. The great Okavango Delta meanders
through northern Botswana with fingery waterways stretching over
an enormous part of the top third of the country. The game viewing
is sensational and the birding unparalleled. Running up through
the middle of this unspoiled country is the infamous Kalahari
Desert with an eco system dramatically different from that of
the great Delta. The Delta and the Desert have some animal and
bird residents in common, and some that are uniquely adapted
to these specific environments. There is something for everyone
in Botswana, everyone who loves nature, that is.
One of hundreds
of waterways that make up the great Okavango Delta, Botswana
Vibrant reflections, Okavango Delta
Lilies, Okavango Delta
Experiencing
the tracker's point of view with bush guide Spencer, Okavango
Delta, Botswana
Our home for our final two weeks
was Kruger National Park. The many miles of land that encompass
this enormous park illustrate how diverse the terrain can be
in South Africa and how quickly this terrain can change. The
northern section of the park is very dramatic, with rivers that
have carved out a great gorge creating ravines with steep rocky
edges dotted with ancient Baobab trees. The southern part of
the park is classic Africa, with wide open spaces where herds
of ungulates prefer to gather, leaving any predators that may
happen into the area more visible. Toward the middle of the park
the terrain is lush, with thorn laden ground scrub and trees
covering much of it, creating areas for animals to remain unseen.
To the west of Kruger Park, outside of its borders lies a large
range of mountains cloaked in vibrant green with unexpected vistas.
Banana trees, lumber pines and other crops cover the fields within
these lofty mountains. The soil is very fertile here and rain
is a constant visitor.
Misty gorge, Luvuvhu River, northern
Kruger National Park, South Africa
Dramatic view where the Luvuvhu
and Mutale rivers converge, northern Kruger Park
On the eastern edge of Kruger Park
is another mountain range seated neatly on the border of South
Africa and Mozambique. Fences between the two countries adjacent
wild game parks have recently come down, allowing resident animals
to move about more freely as they expand their much needed territories.
Like so many countries on the continent of Africa, Mozambique
is in political turmoil making it unsafe for visitors and uncomfortable
for residents. Removal of these fences has encouraged refugees
from Mozambique to make their way through Kruger Park into a
more progressive South Africa where the promise of a better life
awaits them. This is not a trip for the faint hearted, as it
is not uncommon for Kruger Park Rangers to stumble upon the skeletal
remains of refugees greeted with great misfortune as they attempt
unsuccessfully to pass a pride of lions in their quest for a
better life. The refugees are aware of the risks when they cross
through the park, but the lure of improved economic opportunities
in South Africa is overpowering for them.
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